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A year in Tuscan festivals
February’s here, which means it’s almost time for Viareggio’s Carnevale. The Tuscan seaside town hosts the second-most important Mardi Gras event in Italy after Venice—and it all starts tomorrow, with costumed float parades every Sunday until March 1st. If you haven’t booked your accommodation yet, you’ve probably left it too late (but try the Viareggio tourist office). There’s a smaller Carnevale, aimed more squarely at children, in Arezzo, the Carnevale Aretino Orciolaia.
Corpus Domini parade, Orvieto, Umbria
Far from peaking here, February marks the first month in a busy Tuscan festival calendar. If I was planning to attend one a month, my year might look something like this.
March
Head down to Pitigliano, in the Maremma, for the Torciata di San Giuseppe, on the 19th. A torchlit parade along ancient Etruscan tufa paths concludes with the burning of a wicker man in the town square to welcome spring. More information from the Pitigliano tourist office.
April
Aside from the obvious Holy Week and Pasqua celebrations all over Tuscany, I’d pop over the border to Umbria for Coloriamo I Cieli, a balloon and kite festival held around Castiglione del Lago on the western shore of Lago Trasimeno.
May
Ascension Day in Florence sees the annual Festa del Grillo (the Cricket Festival) in the Parco del Cascine, alongside the Arno. Though it’s not quite the same since the city banned the use of real crickets in 1999, it remains one of the city’s traditional family days out.
June
Tuscany goes festa-mad in June, and among plenty of choice I’d probably make for Pisa for San Ranieri. On the evening of the 16th, a whole stretch of the Arno is lit up with 70,000 candles, the luminara, followed by fireworks before midnight. More information from Pisa’s tourist office.
July
There’s only one place to head in July: to Siena, for the Palio. The day itself can be unpleasantly packed, so I’d adopt one of two strategies. Either go for the costumed practice days in the run-up to the main event on the 2nd (they usually begin on June 29th). Or head into Siena on the day after and book yourselves a hotel inside the winning contrada (Siena’s tourist office will help on that one). You’re guaranteed dress-suit parades, traditional songs, impromptu celebrations and all the rest of it, as the winners rub everyone else’s noses in it—all night, every night.
August
Instead of Siena’s second (and marginally more important) Palio, on the 16th, high summer would probably take me to Montepulciano. The Bravio delle Botti, an uphill giant-barrel-pushing race between the town’s quarters, takes place on the penultimate Sunday. Which doesn’t sound like much, unless you’ve ever tried to walk up that hill in August.
September
As summer comes to an end, it’s time to toast the harvest at the Rassegna del Chianti Classico, in Greve-in-Chianti. Buy a glass in the square and wander the stalls sloshing sipping away. A number of wine-themed excursions and events cluster round the Rassegna in early September.
October
It’s back to southern Tuscany in late October for Montalcino’s Sagra del Tordo. If you’ve even wondered what spit-roast songbirds taste like, washed down with Tuscany’s finest red wine (Brunello), now’s your chance to find out.
Things (thankfully) start to slow down from November. By now, I’m thinking I’ve probably earned the rest.
Florence and Umbria accommodation openings
Right about now, with the northern hemisphere shivering, is a fine time to be making accommodation plans for a Tuscany trip in 2009. So, you might be interested to hear that a few new options have appeared just in time.
The brand-new, luxurious Town House Palazzo Vecchietti opened its doors in January, in a spot handy for the cafes of Piazza della Repubblica or the designer shops of Via de’ Tornabuoni. Giambologna renovated the palazzo in the 1580s; prices are as you’d expect for an inn with such a pedigree. (UPDATE: There’s more on the Vecchietti here.)
Seriously upscale visitors to Florence have another reason to be cheerful: the frescoed Renaissance Palazzo della Gherardesca has morphed into the Four Seasons Firenze after a lengthy restoration. It’s on Borgo Pinti, just a little outside the heart of the action.
For a quieter hotel experience, the Palazzo Seneca in Norcia (Umbria) has had a boutique-style revamp and now offers a wellness spa and fine local cuisine. Norcia, the birthplace of St. Benedict, is home to Umbria’s famous black truffle, and sits on the edge of the Monti Sibillini national park.
Finally, if you’re looking for a villa in Tuscany and have a decent budget to play with, the Conde Nast Traveler blog has some sound advice for places to begin your research online. Budget travellers, especially anyone banking in sterling, might want to re-check my Budget Guide to Tuscany that The Times ran last summer. You’ll find some fine accommodation alternatives.
When it comes to Tuscan lodging, you don’t have to be rich to book round here, but it sure helps.
Todi pictures
I’ve added a paltry 3 pictures I snapped in Todi to my flickr set. Each has a brief introduction to these essential sights of the serene little Umbrian town. Perfectly proportioned Piazza del Popolo, with its 12th-century Duomo, and Santa Maria della Consolazione just outside the town walls are worth the trip alone. But more than that, Todi is a great place to just be, not necessarily to see. Put your camera away and soak up the peace. That’s what I did. Which I guess explains why I only have those 3 shots.
There’s much more help with planning a visit to Todi on the comune tourism page (in English). The tourist office is on 075/8945416.
Vasari’s Corridor reopens
From Wednesday 21st January through April, it will once again be possible to visit the Corridoio Vasariano. The “Vasarian Corridor” was designed by Renaissance man Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I de’ Medici: Cosimo didn’t much like mixing with everyday folk when he was perusing his palazzi; Vasari built him a secret passageway so he didn’t have to. The Corridoio now hosts one of the world’s finest collections of artists’ self-portraits.
The Corridoio, which runs from the Palazzo Vecchio through the Uffizi to the Pitti Palace in Oltrarno, including a clandestine crossing above the Ponte Vecchio, will be open twice daily for guided visits from Tuesday to Friday. Call 055/2654321 to book. Tickets are €10.50.
Mind the gap: Tuscan rail stations to avoid
Like much of Italy, Tuscany is well served by the state railway system (Ferrovie dello Stato). One of the tours in my new guidebook shows you how to see the best of it by rail in a week or so. But there are a few stations where you definitely don’t want to get off the train.
1 Pisa Centrale
Okay, that’s a little unfair… Pisa Centrale is the place to alight if you’re heading into central Pisa (and there’s much to recommend it). But if you’re planning a quick turismo tour of Piazza del Duomo—a.k.a. the Campo dei Miracoli—you’ll find yourselves with a long, hot walk to reach first base. Get off at Pisa San Rossore instead and you’re just a couple of minutes away.
2 Prato Centrale
Tuscany’s second city is a perfect day-trip from (or antidote to) Florence, but don’t get off at Prato Centrale for the sights clustered round the Duomo. Alight at Prato Porta al Serraglio station, and the Lippi frescoes, the Virgin’s Girdle and the rest of it are just a couple of minutes’ walk down Via Magnolfi.
3 Firenze Campo di Marte
Unless you’re heading to a Fiorentina game, there probably isn’t any reason for you to be at Florence’s suburban station. Almost everything to see in the city is accessible from Firenze Santa Maria Novella. If you find yourself at Campo di Marte (say, off the night train from Paris), take any of the short rail interconnections, or city buses 12 or 33 from the street outside.
4 Montepulciano
Tuscany’s highest hill-town supposedly lies “on” the Siena–Chiusi secondary rail line, but the station is nowhere near Montepulciano (about 6 miles away). There’s a local bus connection that theoretically hooks up with the train timetable, but, hey, this is Italy… If you’re heading to Montepulciano (and you should), take the Tra.In bus.
5 Siena
The Gothic city of Siena is another that you’re best visiting by bus, especially from Florence. Trains are regular, but long and slow, and sometimes require a change at Empoli. Then they dump you in Piazza Rosselli, 15 minutes by bus north of central Siena. Use the rapido bus operated jointly by Tra.In and SITA and alight at Piazza Gramsci, 5 minutes’ walk north of the Campo.
There are, though, plenty of Tuscan towns that are ideal for rail-tripping. Aside from Florence, obviously, Lucca and Viareggio have good connections combined with stations just a short walk from the action. Arrive at Arezzo and you’re just a short stroll downhill from the Piero della Francesca frescoes.
If you’re travelling by rail, remember to validate your ticket before boarding, by inserting it into the yellow machines marked “convalida” on every platform. Local trains are cheap: if you’re touring just in Tuscany for most of your trip, you won’t get value from a pre-paid rail pass. Ticket machines are (almost) idiot-proof, and trips are easily planned in advance on the superb Trenitalia website.
Enjoy.
UPDATE: My Bella Vita has more tips on hassle-free Italian rail travel.
Trip-planning feedback for Tuscany and Umbria
It’s always pleasing to hear that our book is filling the trip-planning holes we intended. Of course, it was very nice to be judged the Best Guidebook of 2008 by travel industry insiders. And it’s equally nice to be written about by a real family planning an actual trip to Tuscany this summer:
They [the With Your Family series] have … all of the family friendly travel information you require. They give star ratings for attractions plus recommended ages (and I’m impressed by the fact that they have suggestions right from babies through to teenagers). There are highlights and must-see attractions. There are accommodation options for families from ultra-expensive through to economical (for which they provide price guidelines not just $$$ or $). I love the special icons they have – find, moment, value, overrated and green. Plus they include reviews of playgrounds and parks which are very important to families!
That’s all true. There are some great books in the series. I’ve found Rhonda Carrier’s companion guides to Brittany and Normandy especially handy. For Frommer’s Tuscany and Umbria With Your Family, we considered every single one of those factors when researching and writing the book. Much of my (grown-up) research was then road-tested by unforgiving under-5s. It’s gratifying that family travellers are finding it a useful tool in planning a trip to Tuscany and Umbria. I’m always pleased to hear from readers. Your feedback can help make any future new edition, of this and my other books, even better. Thanks.
Bargello Treats for 2009
Visitors to Florence’s Bargello Museum in early 2009 can look forward to a couple of extra treats on top of the usual world-class permanent sculpture collection. Restoration work has finished on Donatello’s bronze David, the first free-standing nude since Roman times when it was completed sometime in the 1440s. It will take centre-stage alongside the sculptor’s other Bargello works, and earlier (1401) bronze panels by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi, in the Salone del Quattrocento.
Meanwhile, April sees the opening of an important exhibition of works by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, charting the links between his sculpture and the birth of Baroque portraiture. It follows a major Bernini exhibition at California’s Getty Center in 2008.
The Bargello Museum, housed inside a magnificent Gothic fortress on Via del Proconsolo, is worth €4 of your entrance money anytime. It’s one Florence stop I recommend highly in the new book, due out in May.
Dante’s “Inferno”, coming soon to an XBOX near you
Ever felt the urge to tackle the classic of Tuscan literature, the book that (partly) defined the Italian language? We do recommend it in the holiday reading section of our book. It’s a thoroughly modern tale of lust, gluttony, greed, wrath, heresy, violence, fraud and treachery. But at three volumes, 1600+ pages in total, you’d better pack your toothbrush: Dante’s Divine Comedy is a long old ride.
There may, however, be a shortcut in 2009. Videogame publisher Electronic Arts have just announced Dante’s Inferno: the game, a third-person action adaptation of the first book of the Comedy. They’ve launched a short teaser trailer. According to Executive Producer Jonathan Knight:
The time is right for the world of interactive entertainment to adapt this literary masterpiece, and to re-introduce Dante to an audience who, until now, may have been unfamiliar with the remarkable details of this great work of art. It’s the perfect opportunity to fuse great game play with great story.
Variety report that EA are also hawking the game round the major film studios. Of course, I wouldn’t bet the mortgage on EA’s version sticking too close to the 14th-century original.
The book wins an award
It was announced this week that the book has been judged Best Guidebook 2008 at the ENIT Travel Writing Awards. Obviously, we’re chuffed to bits to have impressed the panel of Italian tourism experts, and to have beaten so many other fantastic new guidebooks. The new goal is for my next book, due out early next year, to win the 2009 prize.
To celebrate, time-permitting, more new material and updates on Tuscany will appear here soon. I promise.
More on the announcement here:
The winning Frommer’s title written by authors Donald Strachan and Stephen Keeling was singled out for the quality of its research, writing and opening up a new area in Italian tourism.
Taking You Back to Tuscany
Just back from Tuscany? Pining for the place? Not even a little? I know I am.
This website combines Google Maps and 360 degree panoramic photography to give you a real sense of being in 15 different spots across the region. There’s even a bit of Umbria – Perugia and Assisi – thrown in for good measure.
I especially love this internal panorama of the Basilica di San Miniato al Monte, in Florence. The Romanesque basilica, just uphill from Piazzale Michelangelo (see the book, p. 61), is one of the few city spots you can find a bit of peace, even in high season. On p. 63 of the book we recommend a family Oltrarno walk, from the Giardino di Boboli, that’ll guide you all there.
Okay, so a bit of surfing doesn’t quite match basking under a Tuscan sun for yourself. But, from my desk in East London, it’s as close as I’m getting for now. Alas.
